Tani's Metalworking Thread

[Tanimaga]

I figure since GT is blessing us with his model making info, I may as well throw my own shumi out here. I've been interested in machining and making things pretty much since I can remember. I remember being about 5-6 years old, and taking my grandmother's telephone apart just to see how it worked. She got really p*ssed off, and took it away before I could put it back together for her... (I know I could have!). Anyways.. besides taking everything apart in the house, I got into tools and machining.. my step father was a tool and die guy, and I would go into the shop with him to check on whatever he needed to check. The plating tanks, heavy machinery, and smells of steel was pleasant for me. Later, after the tool company (Vanadium Tool and Die Co.) shut it's door, he got a job working for Ohio University as a janitor. I would go to his work place from time to time, and luckily it was in a Mechanical Engineering building. Imagine a young kid looking into an engineering area where an apparent project was a small sand-rail style go cart. I was hooked after that!

Flash forward a few years, and a young Tani foolishly entering the US Army as a SATCOM guy. Learned a good amount about electronics, but my main love was mechanical. Cars came naturally, and I was really into the race scene when it was big back in the early 90's.. but after a child, and growing up a little, I left that behind (at least for now).

What amazes me about machining today is the speed and repeatability of what can be done. A few years ago, nothing came close as far as quality of finish and fit of parts. It used to be that mechanics had to hand lap or hand scrape parts to fit, or align parts just right to engage properly. Now, it is pretty much plug and play. It has greatly improved wear and tear on components (since the fits are so precise), but has also lead to a decline in actual craftsmen IMO. It's amazing how few people know how to use a simple file, or know what type of file to use on what material. Years ago, it was pretty common knowledge.

Anyways, this is my thread on metal working of any type.. machining, bending, welding, whatever. I don't expect it to be a hot topic, but one I'll add to.

[Tanimaga]

I'll try to add interesting machining projects that don't take up too much time.. it can get boring quick.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrk6wqcB54g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I3diD1lpho

I believe at least part of this engine was made on the same equipment I have..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg0k7zDsB8w

Same machine I have...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sa9ZzFrpBM8

[Tanimaga]

This is a definite "want to build".


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUjMa7Tx_xc

[Tanimaga]

My machine in action..


http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/Nozzle.jpg


Machining a part for a BMW..

As said before.. the controller software runs LINUX.. extremely high quality for the price.. FREE!

The piece being machined ended up being anodised (be me) black as shown..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/DSC04328-1.jpg


Also dabble in spearfishing gear..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/Speartip.jpg

Making spears, barbs, and accessories.

[SnaFu]

Cool OP Tani,

My grandfather was a machinist for Fairchild Republic in New York before they up and moved. Must have been late 60's early 70's. He was able to bring me to the plant from time to time and see what he did. As a hobby he did woodworking in his garage. I think the rig he had was called a Shopsmith. A pretty beefy combination unit c/o lathe, table saw, surface plane and band saw if I remember correctly. Really cool memories there.

Years later I got a job as a CNC tech working on assembly line equipment. I got my paws into a wide range of equipment you would prabably appreciate.

A custom built 5 axis drill for wings X,Y,Z alpa and beta; 3 axis leader / followers that would dwarf most houses on Okinawa, Electron beam welder, Eaton pipe benders, a wide range of 3 and 4 axis milling machines. We had a 2 axis wire cutter that would turn out gears that would fit in a watch.

The measuring instruments were even more impressive. You could take a template of nearly any shape, set it on the table and jog in a probe. Once you set home and start it would trace out the template, render a drawing or send the specs to a milling machine on line to reproduce that part. We had a similar rig for what we called bender land where there were rows of pipe benders. Simply set the template on the table and place a v-block style probe to each straight. Load the bend radius and material diameter and send it to whichever machines you wanted.

For heat treat they had overhead Lucifer ovens in one area with LN2 or water quench tanks, ceramic dye heat treat for wing skins, endo gas furnaces for arresting hooks and salt pots. They could be pretty nasty if you weren't careful. 1100 degree F liquid salt splashing on your skin can be a bit unpleasant. Never happened to me personally though. Of course they had your standard annealing ovens also.

I can't remember the name of one of the other processes but Induction Mold comes to mind. They would set a steel cylinder inside of a mold and lower a massive coil of wire into it. Then charge a bank of capacitors filling a room roughly the size of a Family Mart and discharge them through the coil of wire. The flux field would expand the cylinder to the shape of the mold. Damn thing sounded like a 105 howlitzer when it went off.

There were other machines nut I can't remember them. It was a pretty cool job overall.

By the way I know what you mean about people not knowing how to use a file not to mention a hand saw...

Anyway I'm not trying to hijack your thread... Every now and again people ask me if I know of any fabrication shops. If I get any inquiries I'll PM you to see if it's up your alley.
:)

[SnaFu]

That Sherline looks sweet. I'm by no means a machinist but that looks like it would be an awesome machine to work with once you figure it out.

[Tanimaga]

I go off on tangents anyways.. it's impossible to derail one of my threads.

I've gotten into foundry work recently (2-3 years or so), and I like it. An induction setup would be great, but I don't want to pay the electric bill. LP gas burner will do just fine. I built one myself, and it works like a charm..(no air pump needed). Looking into lost foam casting, as it's easy mill out a piece of foam. Tried it once, and was not successful.

I once melted some aluminum in my 3rd floor apartment bathroom. Spills occurred, molten aluminum went down some PVC drains.. housing agency was calling me up..

"I have no idea what happened".

[Tanimaga]

That Sherline looks sweet. I'm by no means a machinist but that looks like it would be an awesome machine to work with once you figure it out.

Thanks..

I'm not a machinist either. Just a decent machine operator. Anyone who hasn't been to school.. then apprenticed under someone for 1-2 years.. then proved themselves by working as a machinist on their own is not either.

Air force combines machining and welding into one 6 month course, and dares call them machinists. Like me picking my nose makes me a surgeon.

[SnaFu]

I just fixed them. The operators were always standing by. I never had the oportunity to operated them beyong jogging the heads back and forth and making sure they returned back to home.

[Tanimaga]

I just fixed them. The operators were always standing by. I never had the oportunity to operated them beyong jogging the heads back and forth and making sure they returned back to home.

Ah.. honestly, maintaining the systems and keeping them in top form is better knowledge than operating IMO. Turning the dials is one thing, but keeping the accuracy (especially if you have to hand tweak the machines) is a better experience.

[SnaFu]

Ah.. honestly, maintaining the systems and keeping them in top form is better knowledge than operating IMO. Turning the dials is one thing, but keeping the accuracy (especially if you have to hand tweak the machines) is a better experience.

Maybe so... But I enjoy building things. I used to love watching Junk Yard Wars and Monster Garage.

Besides electronics is a perishable skill, its been a few years and it just isn't fun any more.

[Tanimaga]

Maybe so... But I enjoy building things. I used to love watching Junk Yard Wars and Monster Garage.

Besides electronics is a perishable skill, its been a few years and it just isn't fun any more.

I hear you on the TV shows. Very educational... at one point I considered a home-made SAM system to freak out the helos that flew over my house constantly. Then I considered living the rest of my life in a jail cell. Yeah.. forget that idea.

[SnaFu]

lol. Yeah they are some noisy bastards but I think they would frown upon that...

[Tanimaga]

I also will build a pulse jet engine for no reason whatsoever. My burner is surprisingly similar to this jet engine, but only about 10 inches long. It sounds like a small rocket, but not as loud as this one.

Amazing a jet engine can have no moving parts and have a enough thrust to launch a missile. The Germans used the same engine to launch rockets at targets in England. The sound alone make people freak out.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1890262/pulse_jet_engine/

[SnaFu]

Is that the same as a ram jet?

Edit: Just looked it up. Big difference...

[Tanimaga]

Is that the same as a ram jet?

No.. valveless pulse jets operate with a continuous "pulse" of air.. a air/fuel charge is ignited, and expelled from both tubes, and in the process, creates a low pressure where that combustion occurred. That low pressure draws more air back in, as more fuel is added via an injector, or orifice. As the air is drawn back in, it mixes with the fuel, and part of the flame front from the previous ignition also gets drawn in.. igniting the mix. This happens over and over again.

Ramjets operate in a similar fashion (but without the pulse). It relies on high speed air entering the engine (around 400mph). Never really messed around with ramjets.. think of them as highly modified pulsejets.. just a step towards turbojets..

Here's a pulsejet on a kart. Notice the thrust is expelled from both ends of the tubes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U-grFuXZ9U

[DoctorP]

Tani, how much was that machine?

I fix machines, but usually I don't do so well operating them.

[gtlm2000]

Wow!! This kind of thing looks very expensive. I spent to buy model kits between 2,000 to 10,000 yen, but these thing is more than that.

[abonifi1]

Alright Tani, when you are ready, we can start up our coversation from yesterday again.

Out of curiosity, are you running that rotary table via motor, or pneumatically?

Looks mechanical, but I can't really tell from the picture. And as for your sherline motor, nice choice, Fuji uses the same on their microprocessor pick and place machines which are considered the top of the line in the industry.

[Tanimaga]

Tani, how much was that machine?

I fix machines, but usually I don't do so well operating them.

I spent about $1000 on the initial mill, (with accessories) which ended up way too small for my needs. I found a company that "upgrades" the components, and after upgrading everything, it's a completely different machine. Computer controlled equipment requires quite a few different parts than manual.. so I suppose I spent another $5000 to get what I have now. Seems like alot, but for this type of hobby, it's really not. On larger machines, just a ballscrew upgrade may run in the tens of thousands.

[Richard Burns]

This threads reminds me I need to find a trade.

[Tanimaga]

Alright Tani, when you are ready, we can start up our coversation from yesterday again.

Out of curiosity, are you running that rotary table via motor, or pneumatically?

Looks mechanical, but I can't really tell from the picture. And as for your sherline motor, nice choice, Fuji uses the same on their microprocessor pick and place machines which are considered the top of the line in the industry.

Everything is stepper motor controlled. The only pneumatic part I may use will be to alleviate some of the weight of the Z axis via pneumatic cylinder. The movie is not my machine, and does look pneumatic. I rarely use my rotary table...

[gtlm2000]

I have built white metal car model kits. It's not difficult to build.

http://www.tameokits.com/uploads/h.jpg

[Tanimaga]

Some good reading on a handmade model aircraft..

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/park.htm

[Sex Wax]

Could someone with metal working skills make me a Battle Axe? I've wanted one for a long time, but never been able to find a good one.

It would complete me.

[Tanimaga]

Could someone with metal working skills make me a Battle Axe? I've wanted one for a long time, but never been able to find a good one.

It would complete me.

After I get into the new house, I was considering building a forge. I could build a battle ax.

I can complete you.

[DoctorP]

Could someone with metal working skills make me a Battle Axe? I've wanted one for a long time, but never been able to find a good one.

It would complete me.

After I get into the new house, I was considering building a forge. I could build a battle ax.

I can complete you.

You two are sounding really gay right now!

[TheLastDon]

Tani!

You complete ME!

[Tanimaga]

Hey.. battle axes for all!

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zXa_AVvDnEo/SeiHZ7eIkLI/AAAAAAAAC_U/_ImVR8qU-44/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg

[Tanimaga]

Back to the metalworking...

Here is my favorite, most poured over site..

http://www.cnccookbook.com/

This guy has helped me out alot on the forums.. very pragmatic and down to Earth style as opposed to some others set in their ways...

I like the "lets see if it works" types over "the book says it won't".

[Mizzes V]

Hey.. battle axes for all!

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zXa_AVvDnEo/SeiHZ7eIkLI/AAAAAAAAC_U/_ImVR8qU-44/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg

PAPACITOOOOOO PAPI CHULO :w00t::w00t:<3<3<3<3<3

[Sex Wax]

You two are sounding really gay right now!

"Gay" and "Battle Axe" have never been used in the same sentence together.

However, if I have to wear a pink tutu to get a Battle Axe, well.......call me gay.

Just don't call me gay when I have my Battle Axe !!

[Tanimaga]

"Gay" and "Battle Axe" have never been used in the same sentence together.


I believe it was thrown around my middle school quite a bit. Imagine a 200lb Ohio PE teacher. She knew her way around the girls locker room if you know what I mean.

[Tanimaga]

I do all my CAD work in Rhino 3D. I've taught myself everything so far..not too difficult if you try the tutorials, and experiment alot.

One of my projects is a dive knife.. this is a three piece knife..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/Knife1.jpg

I've also done a one piece, but will have to dig it up..

[Tanimaga]

Found it..!

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/KnifeX.jpg

[Tanimaga]

Some pics of my foam casting pattern..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P7220020.jpg

The finished piece.. a security camera mount..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P7220021.jpg

This is used in a sand casting to copy the shape. Molten aluminum pours in, and burns the foam away, leaving an exact copy in its place. The static pressure of the aluminum prevents sand from falling in as the mold is filled (in theory, but a little does penetrate the casting) Usually, the piece is dipped into a refractory "mud", and allowed to dry.. This protects the project while it is filled, and the mud simply cracks off the piece after it cools a little.

I have yet to perfect this particular style of casting..

[Tanimaga]

Next, is the melting of the aluminum..

This is my current setup, but I will invest in something larger and more permanent once I get into the new house..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P7280058.jpg

I like to use pistons, and other high quality aluminum when I can. much better and cleaner. The aluminum supposedly contains traces of the additives that were introduced when the initial casting was done.. this helps protect the metal when it is remelted. (I do add some additive if it is particularly dirty aluminum, or something low quality. I believe this piston is from an Nissan RB20 that lost some rings in the combustion chamber.

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P7280056.jpg

Almost there...!

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P7280062.jpg

And melted..!

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P7280064.jpg

The rough coating on the top is called dross.. it is impurities in the metal which actually help protect the clean aluminum underneath. Just skim it to the side while pouring. The aluminum has the consistency of melted solder.

[Tanimaga]

Some old pics of melted beer cans. My ex girlfriend supplied me with an unlimited amount.

This is just aluminum poured into an open mold.. nothing too difficult. Just gently pushed the end of a fire extinguisher into the petrobond sand, and you fill it up.

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/PA0_0088.jpg

The rough slug after cooling..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/PA0_0086.jpg

And machined down all pretty..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/PA0_0085.jpg


This piece became the base and holder for my digital readout (DRO).

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/GRP_0286.jpg

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/GRP_0287.jpg

These pics were taken with my phone some time ago.. sorry if they look rough.

[Tanimaga]

Pic of a tattoo gun grip I made..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/PA0_0053.jpg

Also, a gear blank holder.. so I can cut gears using a hob on the lathe.

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/PA0_0138-1.jpg

A fuel rail for a L20 Nissan engine. The owner turned into a real douche, and sadly, I'll never see it run. Lesson learned never to waste time on machining for "friends". Cash only, biyotch.

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/GRP_0298.jpg

[Tanimaga]

A little anodising before and after.

The part was sent to the states for anodising gold, but it came back as an olive drab color.. obviously run with an incorrect batch. I stripped the old color off, and started from scratch..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P3140032.jpg

After the anodising..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P3170040.jpg

The customer put it on his bike, and the key tumbler wouldn't fit.. back to Tani for machining out the keyhole..

The bike is on Kadena.. it is black, and slowly getting more and more gold accents..!

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P1010079.jpg

The origional stock unit, and the one a'la Tani..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/P1010083.jpg

[Tanimaga]

I will be officially moved into the new home tomorrow.. no internet until I get it hooked up! Be back later!

[rflmn1]

Are there any maching supply stores on the island?

[Tanimaga]

Are there any maching supply stores on the island?

Supplies as in what? There are some places that sell endmills and such, but most I order via USPS.

[Sex Wax]

Could you make me a metal skull for my grill? It would have to hold up to high temps.

[gtlm2000]

Could you make me a metal skull for my grill? It would have to hold up to high temps.

Why do you need skull for your grill? :scratchchin:

[rflmn1]

I want to pick up a few indexable insert end mills and a chamfering endmill. I despise waiting for things to come in the mail, so I'd like to buy locally.

SW, I could probably make a skull for you if you come up with a drawing.

[rflmn1]

Where is the store with endmills? I hate waiting for the mail

[Tanimaga]

My old place is near the Yellow Jeans shop in Awase "Jeans & Co.".

Make a left if driving towards Kadena, and it is on the right hand side about a half kilometer down. The is a field where you can park just to the left of the store (at least it was there last year). It's name is Gushiken, but I don't recall any signs at all.. just a hole in the wall kind of place that seemed to have everything.

I generally order thru the Little Machine Shop..


http://www.littlemachineshop.com/default.php

Or Victor Machinery..

http://www.victornet.com/

Both take up to 3 weeks to get parts, but Sherline direct is generally a couple days..

http://www.sherlinedirect.com/

[Tanimaga]

Could you make me a metal skull for my grill? It would have to hold up to high temps.

Here's a decent skull machined..

http://www.azece.com/images/skull_derby_polished_replace_use_500.jpg

Pretty simple to machine too!

[Asshat]

Tani, I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread. As I am in the midst of complete resoration of a mid-70's jet boat, I can appreciate milled aluminum. If I had your skills and tools, I could do a much better job of the restoration.

For example, I'd machine a battery tray, wire and hose clamps, air scoop, mounts for alternator, throttle rigging, extinguisher, etc. etc. :) Just off the top of my head. The battery mount I want is not quite what I want, but over 100 bucks. I can't even find the right cable and hose mounts.

Getting two aluminum tanks polished by the way was over $700. Look better than chrome though.

Anyway, cool thread. I'd like to see the retired dentist machine up a Merlin motor that runs for his P51/F4U.

[leonthelion]

Hi Tani,

Thanks for this inspiring thread!

I'm in the process of turning my GPX250 into a streetfighter as the plastics were cracked when I got it and I like removing dead weight and tinkering... it's pretty bastardised now, but I want to cut and re-weld the frame, removing a piece from the tail. Thing is, I've never welded before :P

What would be an entry level welder that would allow me to mess with my frame without braking the bank?

This is a rough shape I want to achieve:

[Asshat]

What would be an entry level welder that would allow me to mess with my frame without braking the bank?

Wire feed gas. But welding on a frame-not a good place to practice on. If you are changing rake or trail, you could cut and tack, but I'd get a journeymen level welder to run the beads.

[Tanimaga]

Hi Tani,

Thanks for this inspiring thread!

I'm in the process of turning my GPX250 into a streetfighter as the plastics were cracked when I got it and I like removing dead weight and tinkering... it's pretty bastardised now, but I want to cut and re-weld the frame, removing a piece from the tail. Thing is, I've never welded before :P

What would be an entry level welder that would allow me to mess with my frame without braking the bank?

This is a rough shape I want to achieve:

I was looking for a MIG last night, and settled on this model from Lincoln.. 180 amp output is pretty solid, and is handy if you want to weld aluminum.

http://www.contractorssupply.com/Qstore/p003799.htm

It is a little on the pricey side, but anything less than this will leave you wishing for more. I've been thru enough welders to know.

Any welder that uses 120 volts is a toy that will overheat, or not melt the base metal.

[Tanimaga]

Wire feed gas. But welding on a frame-not a good place to practice on. If you are changing rake or trail, you could cut and tack, but I'd get a journeymen level welder to run the beads.

This is true.. get proficient before making life dependant welds..!!!

[leonthelion]

Thanks guys, I think I got to do a bit of reading up on the whole welding thing as I still have it in my head that it's like a big-ass soldering iron :P

[Tanimaga]

Thanks guys, I think I got to do a bit of reading up on the whole welding thing as I still have it in my head that it's like a big-ass soldering iron :P

Best way to MIG weld is to MIG weld. Are you in Okinawa?

[leonthelion]

Best way to MIG weld is to MIG weld. Are you in Okinawa?

Not yet, but things are already being packed up, possibly April...

[Tanimaga]

Not yet, but things are already being packed up, possibly April...

I've got 2 stick welders, and a $6000 TIG in the shed. Probably will have the MIG by the time you get to Okinawa.

20 minutes, and you'll be welding like a pro..!

[leonthelion]

I've got 2 stick welders, and a $6000 TIG in the shed. Probably will have the MIG by the time you get to Okinawa.

20 minutes, and you'll be welding like a pro..!

Cheers! Looking forward to it!

[rflmn1]

My old place is near the Yellow Jeans shop in Awase "Jeans & Co.".

Make a left if driving towards Kadena, and it is on the right hand side about a half kilometer down. The is a field where you can park just to the left of the store (at least it was there last year). It's name is Gushiken, but I don't recall any signs at all.. just a hole in the wall kind of place that seemed to have everything.

I generally order thru the Little Machine Shop..


http://www.littlemachineshop.com/default.php

Or Victor Machinery..

http://www.victornet.com/

Both take up to 3 weeks to get parts, but Sherline direct is generally a couple days..

http://www.sherlinedirect.com/

what road is this place on?

[rflmn1]

what road is the store on?

[Mizzes V]

what road is the store on?

:thumbup: The road next to a stop sign!

[Sex Wax]

Here's a decent skull machined..

http://www.azece.com/images/skull_derby_polished_replace_use_500.jpg

Pretty simple to machine too!

Dude...thats cool !! Did you make it?

[Sex Wax]

Why do you need skull for your grill? :scratchchin:

To make it reflect my personality, .....and look bad-ass. Why would you put a skull on your grill.

[leonthelion]

ok, well, my initiation into welding will likely happen next week. my mate is clearing out his workshop/rented land as is moving at the end of the month. I am storing some of his tools at my place, including a cpl of non-fed, non-gas welders and some compressor tools & compressor, oh and another 3 motorbikes (!). some of which I'm sure I'll end up keeping, but will start with spot-welding some scrap metals and then play around with my bike. will update with pix of the welders I have so someone here can explain what type they are :P

[rflmn1]

testing testing

[Tanimaga]

Dude...thats cool !! Did you make it?

Didn't make this, but it's a simple project.

[Tanimaga]

testing testing

Lemme see if I can locate it via google maps..

[turtious]

Im looking for a place to get metal and do metal work here on the island. Does anyone here know a place like that? Just so you know what type and such metal that I am talking about take a look at the stuff in this video. There is a group of us here on Kadena that do this and if we could find a source here on island that would allow us to make this stuff then that would be a literal miracle. Here is the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJA1-RpHWkE&feature=related

[Tanimaga]

will update with pix of the welders I have so someone here can explain what type they are :P

Sure can/will!

[Tanimaga]

Im looking for a place to get metal and do metal work here on the island. Does anyone here know a place like that? Just so you know what type and such metal that I am talking about take a look at the stuff in this video. There is a group of us here on Kadena that do this and if we could find a source here on island that would allow us to make this stuff then that would be a literal miracle. Here is the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJA1-RpHWkE&feature=related

Takunan near Naha is a good spot to find sheet metal and various pieces of material.

Take 58 towards Naha.. pass Futenma Air Base.. go over the first bridge.. not too far past the bridge, on the right, there is an ESSO station, and a blue sign indicating a right turn will take you to the Land Transportation Office..

Make the right, and make a right at the second stop light.. the warehouse looking areas are the metal shops. The one on the far right (Group B) I believe has all the sheet metal..

[turtious]

Would you be willing to help us out any with the fabrication, we could use some help with location as far as working on the metal is concerned.

[Tanimaga]

Would you be willing to help us out any with the fabrication, we could use some help with location as far as working on the metal is concerned.

I don't have many tools for this type of work, but a friend does. Its possible he could be hired out.. he does lots of motorcycle sheet work like tanks and fenders.

[Sex Wax]

What about a chainlink cock-ring, I could wear it to Iron Maiden concerts.

[leonthelion]

I don't have many tools for this type of work, but a friend does. Its possible he could be hired out.. he does lots of motorcycle sheet work like tanks and fenders.

Awesome! I quickly stuck my bike back together today to go to my mate's and help him push a few cars around (nice workout!). The bike felt a lot lighter in the first stages of stripping stuffs off, I should be able to shave another 5-10kgs off, but having a custom tank would be so cool.

I'm still coming with those pix of my welder and newly acquired tools, I think some of the bikes at my place will be going on auctions later tonight.

[turtious]

I don't have many tools for this type of work, but a friend does. Its possible he could be hired out.. he does lots of motorcycle sheet work like tanks and fenders.
What about a location that we could use to work on metal and such. Most of us live on base and there really isnt anywhere that I know of that we can do it here. Mostly because even if we want to do it in base housing, im pretty sure that we would get the neighboors pretty mad at us.

[turtious]

And could you put me in contact with your friend that might be able to be hired out for us?

[leonthelion]

will update with pix of the welders I have so someone here can explain what type they are :P

Sure can/will!

ok, snapped some pix while out working on my Eliminator today:

My mate is generously giving me the red welder, compressor, drill press and a bunch of other bits n pieces.

http://leonstafford.com/P1010008-1.JPG

http://leonstafford.com/P1010009-1.JPG

http://leonstafford.com/P1010010-1.JPG

I haven't played with the welder yet, but maybe tomorrow if I can get a bunch of work done tonight (haha).

[Mehi River]

Petition the US govt to establish a forge on base!

[Tanimaga]

ok, snapped some pix while out working on my Eliminator today:

My mate is generously giving me the red welder, compressor, drill press and a bunch of other bits n pieces.

I haven't played with the welder yet, but maybe tomorrow if I can get a bunch of work done tonight (haha).

Both are stick welders.. probably 200vac models.. good copper wound units are bulletproof..

[Tanimaga]

And could you put me in contact with your friend that might be able to be hired out for us?

I'll talk to him..

He is rebounding from cancer at a really young age... gotta see if he is up for it.

[Tanimaga]

My friend says it is cool to contact him for work..

He does welding, sheetmetal work, and can also do leather projects. Motorcycles are his thing, but he also used to make custom furniture. He's got a good sized CNC wood router as well.

Anyone interested in his contact info, PM me..

[leonthelion]

My friend says it is cool to contact him for work..

He does welding, sheetmetal work, and can also do leather projects. Motorcycles are his thing, but he also used to make custom furniture. He's got a good sized CNC wood router as well.

Anyone interested in his contact info, PM me..

Awesome, sounds like someone I'd definitely want to meet and talk bike stuffs. I'll wait til I get there if I bring some beers, maybe you can introduce me sometime?

When you say CNC router, does it only do 2D patterns/carvings, or will it rotate and allow full 3D sculpting?

[Tanimaga]

When you say CNC router, does it only do 2D patterns/carvings, or will it rotate and allow full 3D sculpting?

I haven't seen it in action, but that would be dependant on the software..

I would assume 2D or 2.5D.. but I'll ask him tomorrow when I meet up with him.

He is getting a shop going... more of a custom bike hobby club house where everyone can have their tools and storage. It will be near Gushikawa/Uruma area.

He has an add in the JU classifieds under "Motorcycles" if anyone is interested.

[leonthelion]

I haven't seen it in action, but that would be dependant on the software..

I would assume 2D or 2.5D.. but I'll ask him tomorrow when I meet up with him.

He is getting a shop going... more of a custom bike hobby club house where everyone can have their tools and storage. It will be near Gushikawa/Uruma area.

He has an add in the JU classifieds under "Motorcycles" if anyone is interested.

Thanks, I gave him an email as that sounds like an awesome idea and chances are I will secure a job in the city now before getting there, so somewhere to store and tinker on my bikes would be cool.

[turtious]

I would love to talk to him about some SCA stuff, please let me know what I gotta do to meet up with him or get in touch with him

[Tanimaga]

I would love to talk to him about some SCA stuff, please let me know what I gotta do to meet up with him or get in touch with him

I sent you a PM yesterday with his contact info.

[UndeadJiraiya]

I was interested in doing some home-foundry work before I stumbled on this cool thread of yours. I've pored through backyardmetalcasting.com, but I was really concerned about setting Okinawa on fire since I pretty much live in the middle of a jungle. For now I'd love to pick your brain on your experiences with metal casting, as well as necessary skills like welding, which I have zero experience with.

Eventually I'd like to make my own practice weapons for Chinese martial arts* that have a decent heft to them and can be tailored for better balance (aluminum is not my first choice but considering Japanese law I can't argue, and broken weapons can be melted down and re-cast) I'd also like to make training rings out of brass (like these: http://www.wle.com/products/TD152.html) and I was wondering if you've done any work with brass, as well as if you have any idea where to purchase brass on island. I suppose the act of creating a metal ring is pretty mundane but do you have any insight on either of these types of projects?

I'm sure I'll think of more questions to pester you with later, but I appreciate your thoughts.

*"Why not Ippon-Do?" you may ask. Because they don't carry butterfly swords, the kwan dao, tiger-hooks, chain whips, etc. And what they do have is shoddy and expensive.

[Tanimaga]

I was interested in doing some home-foundry work before I stumbled on this cool thread of yours. I've pored through backyardmetalcasting.com, but I was really concerned about setting Okinawa on fire since I pretty much live in the middle of a jungle. For now I'd love to pick your brain on your experiences with metal casting, as well as necessary skills like welding, which I have zero experience with.

Eventually I'd like to make my own practice weapons for Chinese martial arts* that have a decent heft to them and can be tailored for better balance (aluminum is not my first choice but considering Japanese law I can't argue, and broken weapons can be melted down and re-cast) I'd also like to make training rings out of brass (like these: http://www.wle.com/products/TD152.html) and I was wondering if you've done any work with brass, as well as if you have any idea where to purchase brass on island. I suppose the act of creating a metal ring is pretty mundane but do you have any insight on either of these types of projects?

I'm sure I'll think of more questions to pester you with later, but I appreciate your thoughts.

*"Why not Ippon-Do?" you may ask. Because they don't carry butterfly swords, the kwan dao, tiger-hooks, chain whips, etc. And what they do have is shoddy and expensive.



Barkyardmetalcasting is the site that got me started as well. I use Lionel's design for my own burner. It is not as dangerous as some would think. Just do it outside, and use the proper safety equipment.

Swords aren't an issue as far as I know, unless the blade is sharp. You can make, harden, and temper a sword to be accurate and REAL.. just skip the sharpening process.

Steel (spring steel) would be the ideal metal for swords.. I know a guy who starts with truck leaf springs, and can make some good swords and knives. It is about the correct shape and heft you would be looking for too.

I recommend the video "The birth of a sword". It is online for downloading if you are a torrent downloader. It takes you on a step by step build of an old Germanic style sword.. complete with decorated hilt and scabbard. Hardening and tempering are covered as well.

[gtlm2000]

I want to make metal wheel for 1/20 Formula 1 scale model kits. :)

[Tanimaga]

I want to make metal wheel for 1/20 Formula 1 scale model kits. :)

These were made with the same machine I have..

http://www.sherline.com/images/LotusWhls.jpg

http://www.sherline.com/images/Super7e.jpg

http://www.sherline.com/images/Super7b.jpg

1/20th model with exta parts machined out of metal..

http://www.sherline.com/images/Castermans3.jpg

http://www.sherline.com/images/Castermans5.jpg

http://www.sherline.com/images/Castermans1.jpg

http://www.sherline.com/images/dirkVWeng.jpg

http://www.sherline.com/images/rodshop3.JPG

http://www.sherline.com/images/engineDL.jpg

[UndeadJiraiya]

That's a pretty cool looking model there.

As for the spring steel, is that something you have any experience with? From Lionel's site I got the impression he'd never actually been able to do steel - his foundries weren't hot enough and the metal would cool too quickly.

It's not something I'm planning to jump into right away, though it'd be fun once I'm more experienced. Even so, making a sword in Japan is not a good plan since I'm not military, and owning a sword is considered a jail-able offense (it's legal to own those fake katanas they sell as display sets since they're hollow and can't be sharpened)

[Tanimaga]

That's a pretty cool looking model there.

As for the spring steel, is that something you have any experience with? From Lionel's site I got the impression he'd never actually been able to do steel - his foundries weren't hot enough and the metal would cool too quickly.

It's not something I'm planning to jump into right away, though it'd be fun once I'm more experienced. Even so, making a sword in Japan is not a good plan since I'm not military, and owning a sword is considered a jail-able offense (it's legal to own those fake katanas they sell as display sets since they're hollow and can't be sharpened)

I don't think it would be difficult.. charcoal and an air pump is all that is needed to forge steel.

The fake katana I have is solid steel, but extremely soft. It won't hold an edge well either.

As long as you aren't playing Samuri showdown out in town, I don't see an issue with unsharpened swords.. hell, they sell machetes on and off base here.

[UndeadJiraiya]

they sell machetes on and off base here.

They might sell machetes, but go to the public park and do some kung fu practice with one and you might get a free tour of the jail and police batons.

A half-American friend who is a Japanese citizen got a concealed weapon violation on his record for having a pocket-knife in his car.

[gtlm2000]

This guy are building 1/20 scale Formula 1 scale model kit, but he also makes some parts from metal.

http://www.f1m.com/main/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=10986

[Tanimaga]

They might sell machetes, but go to the public park and do some kung fu practice with one and you might get a free tour of the jail and police batons.

A half-American friend who is a Japanese citizen got a concealed weapon violation on his record for having a pocket-knife in his car.

Practicing in a public park wasn't on the list of ideas. I just figured back of the house kinda thing.

How about some hardwood swords? They can take a beating, and they aren't illegal as far as I know.

[Tanimaga]

This guy are building 1/20 scale Formula 1 scale model kit, but he also makes some parts from metal.

http://www.f1m.com/main/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=10986

There are some talented individuals doing some good work. I wonder if all that patience and skill could be put towards real vehicles..?

There is some money to be made with the right types of personalities.

[UndeadJiraiya]

Practicing in a public park wasn't on the list of ideas. I just figured back of the house kinda thing.

How about some hardwood swords? They can take a beating, and they aren't illegal as far as I know.

Back of the house isn't large enough, though back of the base gym might be fine...

Hardwood swords don't have good weight or balance. If I'm just going to go through the motions, a cane is sufficiently similar. I suppose the same could be said for a length of pipe, so I guess I'm just being picky at this point, but I'd still rather work with a blocky aluminum blade than a pipe weighted for balance.

[Tanimaga]

Back of the house isn't large enough, though back of the base gym might be fine...

Hardwood swords don't have good weight or balance. If I'm just going to go through the motions, a cane is sufficiently similar. I suppose the same could be said for a length of pipe, so I guess I'm just being picky at this point, but I'd still rather work with a blocky aluminum blade than a pipe weighted for balance.

I'm thinking layered sheetmetal riveted together. Would have the same heft and flex as a regular blade, but couldn't be mistaken for a sword.

[UndeadJiraiya]

That works, but now that I read this I realize I got side-tracked by the sword discussion... see, I can always grab an ugly aluminum sword at Ippon-Do for way too much money, but I can't get

butterfly swords
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/44/Butterfly_Swords.gif

a kwan-dao (General Kwan's Knife)
http://www.wushudirect.co.uk/acatalog/kfs056%20dragon%20head%20kwan%20dao%20-%20500-blow-up.jpg

or, as an example, wind and fire wheels
http://www.wushudirect.co.uk/acatalog/wf_wheels.jpg
(OK, I admit that, for me, these are more for playing with than serious training)

When I asked if I could order some of these I was immediately told no. So yea, that's what got me interested in this in the first place. In any case, melting aluminum or riveting sheet metal probably works just as well, for the first two at least.

[Tanimaga]

I think it's do-able for some of the things.

My friend studied some form of martial art, and had a kwan-dao look-alike in the back of his van. I know he bought it on Okinawa somewhere.

[leonthelion]

Practicing in a public park wasn't on the list of ideas. I just figured back of the house kinda thing.

How about some hardwood swords? They can take a beating, and they aren't illegal as far as I know.

a bit off topic, but what was the situation that they searched his car? The same weekend that they changed the law on pocket knives here, they arrested a bunch of tourists, just to show that the law was in effect.

I used to make sure mine was properly scuffed up and I could say I use it for business, but it's not worth the risk anymore. There are some great work-use short bladed box cutters which can serve most purposes just fine and fall within the 5cm limit.

I don't think the law gets into details that you couldn't get away with a long pole with 100 x 5cm blades on it though :scratchchin:

[UndeadJiraiya]

They didn't charge him with anything else but he's half-black so they probably profiled him and pulled him over.

This might've been around the same time they changed the law, and since you're saying they made a spectacle of it previously, that could've been part of the issue.

[rflmn1]

Any chance to find the store on GOOGLE?

[Sex Wax]

OK Tani....make me a skull, with a working thermometer in it's mouth for my grill.

Edit:

Here's what I need, a Space your Face metal plate, with a grill thermometer in it:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o169/AshMiller1972/skullgrill.jpg

Hook me up with that, and you get a BBQ in your honor.

[Tanimaga]

OK Tani....make me a skull, with a working thermometer in it's mouth for my grill.

Edit:

Here's what I need, a Space your Face metal plate, with a grill thermometer in it:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o169/AshMiller1972/skullgrill.jpg

Hook me up with that, and you get a BBQ in your honor.

This mounts where?

On the grill itself, or does it just hug the thermometer?

[Sex Wax]

This mounts where?

On the grill itself, or does it just hug the thermometer?

The grill has a hole for a thermometer, so it would have to have a way to stay on the grill, and allow the thermometer post to still be inside the grill.

So yeah, hugging it would work, with a couple bolts on it, then I can drill a couple more holes, and screw it on with nuts.

[Tanimaga]

The grill has a hole for a thermometer, so it would have to have a way to stay on the grill, and allow the thermometer post to still be inside the grill.

So yeah, hugging it would work, with a couple bolts on it, then I can drill a couple more holes, and screw it on with nuts.

What's the diameter of the probe portion, and the diameter of the guage itself?

[Sex Wax]

What's the diameter of the probe portion, and the diameter of the guage itself?

See...that's the hang up. My new grill didn't come with the thermometer, and they dont have the CharBroil grill thermometers on base. I'll have to order it.

Hang on, I'll see if I can find the measurements on the charbroil website.

[Sex Wax]

I couldn't find the dimensions for it, but it is the Char-Broil Temperature Gauge YXT-01-11 1 - $7.99. I sent them an e-mail, asking for the dimensions. I'll go ahead and order it anyway.

[Tanimaga]

Here's a concept with a 2" face inlet, and a 1/4" probe access hole..

I don't have any aluminum sheet this size though..I'd have to score some somewhere..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/Sexwax.jpg

[Tanimaga]

DK made me go back to my metal thread, since I am much more knowedgable in the IT field than he is, and he can't take it. I know all about backdoors, and colored hats and crap like that.

Anyways, I thought a shot of my messy container shop was in order.

I just got a DSLR camera, and thought I would play around with it..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/IMG_0148.jpg

My computer free security system..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/IMG_0130.jpg

A rear brake caliper spacer project for a friends Datsun Sunny pickup..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/pic.jpg

A screw up X 2 on a simple project. Machinists LOVE doing a project 3 times.

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/IMG_0151.jpg

My wife and I on my birthday yesterday. Yeah.. no happy Bday from anyone on JU. Thanks, bastards.

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/IMG_0114.jpg

[dk]

Happy birthday, IT n00b. lol

Can you make me a new sword?

[Tanimaga]

Happy birthday, IT n00b. lol

Can you make me a new sword?

I can craft you your Elven blade, nerd.

[dk]

I can craft you your Elven blade, nerd.

Awesome. :D

[Sex Wax]

How come there's not alot of empty beer cans laying around your workshop? I have empty beer cans, empty Mad Dog 20/20 bottles, used rubbers, dead mice, all over my workshop.

[Tanimaga]

Awesome. :D

It will even glow blue when a tsunami is approaching.

[Tanimaga]

How come there's not alot of empty beer cans laying around your workshop? I have empty beer cans, empty Mad Dog 20/20 bottles, used rubbers, dead mice, all over my workshop.

I don't drink, but the ex girlfriend used to down a six pack (at least) every night, and give them to me to melt down into something awesome.

Then she dumped me.. goodbye free aluminum. :crying:

[dk]

It will even glow blue when a tsunami is approaching.

Here is a recipe. Can you make this one for me?

http://www.ffxiah.com/item.php?id=17728

[Tanimaga]

Here is a recipe. Can you make this one for me?

http://www.ffxiah.com/item.php?id=17728

I have everything but the fire crystal. Maybe I can run down to Mekuman tonight.. how do you say fire crystal in Japanese again?

[Sex Wax]

Is that yo woman? She's hot! you lucky bastich !

[dk]

My wife said it's faiya kurisutaru.

I think I have some extra fire crystals lying around. I tend to keep my extras rather than selling or throwing away.

[Tanimaga]

My wife said it's faiya kurisutaru.


You are banned from the metalworking thread.

[THX-1138]

Too bad you can't say that she is lucky to have him!

[dk]

Seriously, that's what my wife said. lol. I was hoping she'd have something more interesting.

[Tanimaga]

I'm a 300lb catch.. it's true.

[Sex Wax]

I'm a 300lb catch.. it's true.

In other words, you are too heavy to throw back? :D

[dk]

In other words, you are too heavy to throw back? :D

He sunk the boat. :thumbup:

[Tanimaga]

In other words, you are too heavy to throw back? :D

I think she would agree. Too heavy to roll off too..

[Sex Wax]

Just messin' with you Tani. You rock !!!!........is my grillin' skull ready?

[Tanimaga]

Just messin' with you Tani. You rock !!!!........is my grillin' skull ready?

Need temperature probe measurements and more details about the holder.

Is it going to bolt to the grill, and the temp probe just slide into it?

[THX-1138]

Yeah man, I was just joking. Your work looks really good. How much do you charge for your services? I am building a xs 650 bobber soon and I am going to need some custom fab work.

[Sex Wax]

Need temperature probe measurements and more details about the holder.

Is it going to bolt to the grill, and the temp probe just slide into it?

lol....you said "probe".

[Tanimaga]

Yeah man, I was just joking. Your work looks really good. How much do you charge for your services? I am building a xs 650 bobber soon and I am going to need some custom fab work.

Really depends on the size and complexity. Thick cross sections call for hours of machine time. Electric bills start inflating..!

[THX-1138]

Understood, I might need some custom brackets and stuff. Won't really know until I mock it up.

[Tanimaga]

Understood, I might need some custom brackets and stuff. Won't really know until I mock it up.

I've made plenty of Harley and street bike brackets/accessories. Shouldn't be a problem.

[THX-1138]

LIFE SAVER!!!! Do you weld?

[Tanimaga]

LIFE SAVER!!!! Do you weld?

I have a $6000 TIG welder in the next room, and a good inverter stick welder somewhere.

[leonthelion]

I'm still yet to play with my welder, but have started cleaning up my newly got Eliminator.

I have a question about buffing/polishing aluminum...

Until now, I've been using a little brass wire attachment for a drill and working over steel parts of the bike to good effect. The lower forks are I think brushed aluminum and were all scuffed up, so thought I'd do the same to them and then once I did a little section, I realised it was gonna take more time than the steel sections and I'll at least need to get a bigger drill attachment brush.. What do you recommend to use? The forks are still on the bike and not wanting to remove them at this stage....

Also, I am just using one softness brass brush, but I saw steel brush attachments at the hardware store, can I use something like that first and then change to the brass?

[Tanimaga]

I'm still yet to play with my welder, but have started cleaning up my newly got Eliminator.

I have a question about buffing/polishing aluminum...

Until now, I've been using a little brass wire attachment for a drill and working over steel parts of the bike to good effect. The lower forks are I think brushed aluminum and were all scuffed up, so thought I'd do the same to them and then once I did a little section, I realised it was gonna take more time than the steel sections and I'll at least need to get a bigger drill attachment brush.. What do you recommend to use? The forks are still on the bike and not wanting to remove them at this stage....

Also, I am just using one softness brass brush, but I saw steel brush attachments at the hardware store, can I use something like that first and then change to the brass?


I suppose the easiest answer is to experiment. There are many aluminum alloys, including some structural ones that are near steel toughness. If they are anodized (which can be determined by trying to OHM check between a couple spots of "bare" aluminum. Anodized surfaces will not conduct electricity, and will be difficult to remove. If you remove the anodized layer, it will corrode quickly (again, depending on alloy), so you will have to polish it and keep it polished, or paint it to keep corrosion from getting a foothold.

[Tanimaga]

Any chance to find the store on GOOGLE?

Sorry dude.. I can't seem to find the old place on Google. It has been some time since I've been there.. maybe I need to plan a trip up there after my wife gives birth.

[Asshat]

Any welder that uses 120 volts is a toy that will overheat, or not melt the base metal.

A friend of mine has a 110 VAC Miller. He says he has used it for years, (gear head like me) and it works fine. Says he can weld up to 1/4" steel.

What do you say? I'm in the market for a new wire feed.

[Tanimaga]

A friend of mine has a 110 VAC Miller. He says he has used it for years, (gear head like me) and it works fine. Says he can weld up to 1/4" steel.

What do you say? I'm in the market for a new wire feed.

The key to welding .250" steel with a low amperage welder (usually 85-120A for a 110vac MIG) is multiple passes. You can bevel the metal to be welded, and make a few passes to build it up. For a solid single pass weld, maybe figure half of that.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/welding-farm/

About halfway down the article, a chart shows nominal amperage requirements for MIG welding .250" steel.. about 180-190A. I think this is a good average.

That being said, a Miller welder scored for any low price is a good find. I like the Miller welders.. good service and equipment.

[dk]

Tani, can you make this one instead? I kind of like the way the sword has a blue to white gradation. Let me know if you need additional materials.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vWihfifjeyg/Sul6lBVqKdI/AAAAAAAABrk/Nz7dDQ8dVX8/s320/sword.jpg

Bonus points for the armour!

[Tanimaga]

Tani, can you make this one instead? I kind of like the way the sword has a blue to white gradation. Let me know if you need additional materials.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vWihfifjeyg/Sul6lBVqKdI/AAAAAAAABrk/Nz7dDQ8dVX8/s320/sword.jpg

Bonus points for the armour!


The blueish hue can be done by heating stainless, or some titanium anodising.

Funny.. I thought I banned you.. :)

[dk]

You can't ban me. I'm admin. lol

[leonthelion]

Thanks again Tanimaga!

Just brought home a friend's KLX250 which he wants all the metal surfaces cleaned up along with some general servicing. Seeing as he's going to pay for it, I will follow the directions of my mechanic buddy so as not to fuck up majorly :P I'll then steal those techniques and use them on my own bikes :D

Btw, am really excited to meet up with your buddy there after emailing him. Sounds like an awesome setup for biker/wrenchers!


I suppose the easiest answer is to experiment. There are many aluminum alloys, including some structural ones that are near steel toughness. If they are anodized (which can be determined by trying to OHM check between a couple spots of "bare" aluminum. Anodized surfaces will not conduct electricity, and will be difficult to remove. If you remove the anodized layer, it will corrode quickly (again, depending on alloy), so you will have to polish it and keep it polished, or paint it to keep corrosion from getting a foothold.

[Tanimaga]

Thanks again Tanimaga!

Just brought home a friend's KLX250 which he wants all the metal surfaces cleaned up along with some general servicing. Seeing as he's going to pay for it, I will follow the directions of my mechanic buddy so as not to fuck up majorly :P I'll then steal those techniques and use them on my own bikes :D

Btw, am really excited to meet up with your buddy there after emailing him. Sounds like an awesome setup for biker/wrenchers!

Sadly, the place he found isn't available. The previous renters decided they want to stay, and now we are on the hunt for another place. Too bad.. the shop we had was ideal. Plenty of floor space, and 30 car parking all in a good central location.

[leonthelion]

thats a bummer... maybe you'll find something even better!

[Tanimaga]

Just a screenshot of a good machining software package..

This is the software that sends the signals to a motor driver, which in turn turns the stepper or servo motors on the actual machine..

The MACH 3 software is amazing. It not only sends the signals to the driver(s), but can also compensate for leadscrew changes from heat on a high speed machine. That is to say, thermal sensors feed the computer and tell it to expect a certain variation in leadscrew length (measured in thousands of an inch over the leadscrew length) depending on heat built up during a machining process.

It can also run itself from end to end on the leadscrew and detect leadscrew errors, and compensate for them during machining. If a touch probe is attached, it can basically "touch off" on a workpiece and get a detailed virtual visualization of what the workpiece is. Similiar to a blind person touching something to get an idea of what it is. After the touch off is complete, it can avoid collisions and adjust for off center X axis.

"Wizards" are available for simple machining processes like milling the top of a surface, drilling holes, and boring..and the screens are completely user configurable. Even a hand held remote control is supported.

http://www.hobbycnc.hu/CNC/Mach3/Eredeti.jpg



Personally, I use EMC2 under Linux Ubuntu. I like the system, and everything is FREE! It is more basic, but it's all I need with a small basic setup. When I go large size CNC, I will change out to Mach3.

http://www.anderswallin.net/wp-content/2008/04_emctest/axis.png

[Tanimaga]

Here's something I haven't tried before. I took a resized pic of my new daughter, and ran it thru a CAM program called MESHCAM. It can do 3D renderings of photographs, so I gave it a try.

It still needs some fine tweaking, but it looks neat.. I did it at high speed to save time.. an actual 6" x 4" piece would take about 12 hours to do.


From this pic..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/Baby15.jpg


To a MDF experimental board..


http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/Baby_MDF.jpg


Thought about doing some business like this..

Baby portraits, feet, or hands machined into aluminum or stainless, and put on display.

[Mizzes V]

Me and my friends think its an awesome idea

http://people.msoe.edu/~dobber/xmas2001/DSCN2248.JPG

[Tanimaga]

Me and my friends think its an awesome idea



You, dk, and your two friends are banned from the metalworking thread. :cursing:

[kombu_kid]

LMFWAO......Tani fucked up....lol....you gave the drunk latina with a mean streak a leetle too mash ammunicion.....

[leonthelion]

that's a great photo Tani.

was kinda hard to see the detail in the carved piece though... maybe the baby's footprint which all mothers seem to love would be easier?

how would you make a bronze with something like that? can you carve into wood/foam and then melt bronze like cheese on top?

[Tanimaga]

that's a great photo Tani.

was kinda hard to see the detail in the carved piece though... maybe the baby's footprint which all mothers seem to love would be easier?

how would you make a bronze with something like that? can you carve into wood/foam and then melt bronze like cheese on top?

I would just machine it into the bronze (or whatever metal).

I could do much more detailed work with a smaller bit and higher spindle speeds.

[Tanimaga]

Here's what it would look like if I took the time, and had the correct bits..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/MeshCam-1.jpg

[leonthelion]

I would just machine it into the bronze (or whatever metal).

I could do much more detailed work with a smaller bit and higher spindle speeds.

cool!

is there any kind of simulator in the software, to give you approximations of how it will look? oh, I guess it has to have a 3D model before cutting,... but like preview how it will look in certain materials at certain spindle speeds/durations?

[Tanimaga]

cool!

is there any kind of simulator in the software, to give you approximations of how it will look? oh, I guess it has to have a 3D model before cutting,... but like preview how it will look in certain materials at certain spindle speeds/durations?

Meshcam configures the toolpath, and Cutviewer (or CncSimulator) will show the toolpath line by line..

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx40/Tanimaga/Cutvwr.jpg

As far as materials, you have to tailor each speed and feed as per what you are cutting. I have a tool library just for MDF cutting, so I can do a high speed dry run without worrying about collisions. If you are going to make a mistake, best to do it in something that wont hurt your equipment. MDF machines beautifully too..

[Tanimaga]

But in essence, yes, you can manipulate the CAM software using different speeds, feeds, and tool types/sizes..

Then run it thru the simulator to see what it will look like. Any mistakes show up pretty well. It is just a simulated machine run.